Sick plant spots and yellowing.

Iamlegend2121

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Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. LED Two RW-75 for a total of 150 Watts.
.2) Distance from tops? 16 Inches
.3) Reflector type? No Reflector
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? Yes
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? Yes
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 75 Watts Each so 150 Watts

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...) Dr. Earth Organic Garden Soil
.8) Size of container. 3.5 Gallons

Your nutrients and water:
.9) Source of water. (tap or filtered) What's it's ph? Tap Water 6.5 PH
10) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...) General Hydroponics PH Test Liquid.
11) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...) General Hydroponics PH up and down.
12) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. General Organics GO Box. Currently bloom nutes, BioThrive Bloom 10ml per gallon ,CaMg+ 5ml per gallon ,Bio Bud 2.5 ml per gallon.
13) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? Alternated feed and water. Last three waterings have been with Nutrients. .5-1 Gallon every three to four days.
14) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...) No
15) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? I have not checked PH of my feeds.
16) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? I havnt checked the PH with the nutrients in the water. I was always told it is a waste of time to ph in an organic set up. Even when I did ph these same problems arise.
17) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray? No

Your growroom:
18) Indoors or outdoors? Indoors
19) What size of closet, room or hut? Small Agromax tent 23 by 36 by 63
20) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? Temps are around 72-75 with lights on and humidity is usually high at aroun 50%. Temps with lights out are around 65-70 and humidity jumps to around 58%.
21) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? No

Your strain:
22) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?)Mephisto S.O.D.K x Alien OG Sativa Indica hybrid.
23) Is this an photoperiod strain? NO
24) How old is the plant? 50 days from seed
25) In what life-cycle is it? Vegetative, pre-flowering, flowering, rippening? Mid-late flowering.
26) From seeds or clones? Seed

This issue came up within 3-4 days. Out of no where almost all of the leaves near the top and middle have turned a lime green/yellow color. Certain leaves have rust spots and necrosis. At first I though it was a calmag deficiency so I added more calmag and that did not help. It seems to be worse near the top half of the plant but their are also issues towards the bottom. Today I flushed with ph'd water and 1/4 strength Veg nutes to try to bring her color back as well as full strength calmag. I usually don't ph my fed or water as I was always told it was useless when growing organic. I have had these same issues even when I did ph my water. It seems to happen almost every grow usually sooner than this but always around mid or late flower. I am now on day 50 on what seems to be a 70-80 day strain. I know their is something I'm doing wrong since it seems to happen almost every time. Whether I'm feeding to much or not enough I don't know. It could be nute burn or nutrient lockout. I usually alternate feeding with plain water but the past three waterings have all been with nutrients at full strength listed above. I could just be frying her with to many nutrients. Any help is much appreciated.
 
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Hi bro, sorry to see shes going through problems mate, great description and information tho, nice one.
Hmmmm she is lacking in Nitrogen mate in my opinion, maybe locked out hence why shes not getting it to her leaves.
you say she is just on a bloom feed schedule? what are the N values of the Bloom feed your using, some of them havnt got enough N in them, whereas bio bizz products still recommend to use their Grow feed even throughout flowering.
Another Q for ya is what is she in? what pot? has she got good airflow around the bottom, good drainage? is she loosing a lot of water when you feed her? or none at all.
The PH or not to PH question?, to be sure bro, you have to test the run off, sure organic soil has ph adjusters in it etc.. but over time they weaken as the soil is drained by the plant. So, yeah mate, test it, if its 5.5 - 5.8, too low., if so, she needs upped to 6.3, keep testing the run off till shes corrected.
but my main bet is she hungry as hell for N. if you suspect a lock out, a nice bit of Epsom salts in some bottle spring water does wonders! even a fizzy bottle mate, they love the Co2 straight to the roots.
Hope that helps mate, its just a prognosis tho, test the run off water an youll see.
Best of luck with her, ill pop in from time to time to see how shes doing.
 
Even though you use organic nutes I would flush with plain water than give her some extra nitrogen in some ph water.don't forget it takes a while for organic nutes to work.
 
Hi bro, sorry to see shes going through problems mate, great description and information tho, nice one.
Hmmmm she is lacking in Nitrogen mate in my opinion, maybe locked out hence why shes not getting it to her leaves.
you say she is just on a bloom feed schedule? what are the N values of the Bloom feed your using, some of them havnt got enough N in them, whereas bio bizz products still recommend to use their Grow feed even throughout flowering.
Another Q for ya is what is she in? what pot? has she got good airflow around the bottom, good drainage? is she loosing a lot of water when you feed her? or none at all.
The PH or not to PH question?, to be sure bro, you have to test the run off, sure organic soil has ph adjusters in it etc.. but over time they weaken as the soil is drained by the plant. So, yeah mate, test it, if its 5.5 - 5.8, too low., if so, she needs upped to 6.3, keep testing the run off till shes corrected.
but my main bet is she hungry as hell for N. if you suspect a lock out, a nice bit of Epsom salts in some bottle spring water does wonders! even a fizzy bottle mate, they love the Co2 straight to the roots.
Hope that helps mate, its just a prognosis tho, test the run off water an youll see.
Best of luck with her, ill pop in from time to time to see how shes doing.
Thanks for the fast response! The values are as follows, BioThrive Bloom 2-4-4 and BioBud .5-.01-1. I gave her a flush with a low dose of veg nutes just in case I'll see if that helps.
She is in an airpot and their is good drainage but she does loose water out of the side when I feed her. Sometimes it feels as if it never reaches he bottom no matter how much I pour in. She has airflow around the bottom of the plant if that's what you mean. The pot is sitting on the ground it's not on a stand or anything. I'll start to ph my feeds again and see if that helps. I know it's acidic once I add the fertilizers from past testing I know it's around 5.5 going in so I'm sure the run off is worse. I'll check the runoff next time I give her water and see what's going on with that. Would a nitrogen deficiency cause those rust spots and necrosis also though. Or would that just be another lockout due to possible PH being too low. Thanks again for the response I really appreciate the help. I need to figure something out because it always happens once mid bloom sets in so it very well could be that I don't transition long enough or Maybee I'll have to start adding a little veg nutes in the mix.
 
Even though you use organic nutes I would flush with plain water than give her some extra nitrogen in some ph water.don't forget it takes a while for organic nutes to work.
Thanks for the response, yeah I flushed today and then gave her 1/4 strength veg nutes I'll give her a couple of days and see if she perks up before I try anything else. I didn't even really think of nitrogen being the main problem since it seems to have started from the top down. Hopefully this will clear it up a little.
 
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No changes yet it's probably too soon to tell. I just thought I'd add I forgot to mention that before this happens the stems and or veins always turn purple. The ones unaffected on the same plant still have green stems. I didn't know if that might help diagnose the problems better. I figured it may be a magnesium deficiency and or lockout. Another plant I have now is starting to get the purple stems and veins so I guarantee in another week she to will look like this.
 
@LED Borg I just watered again with nutrient solution I first checked the PPM and it was around 450 after adding all of my nutes damn...I'm probably starving them....I bumped it up to about 600PPM and adjusted the ph to 6.5. The ph of the run off was around 7.0 so I'm guessing my soil is around 7 ph. With that being said even though the PPM of my feed was around 600 the run off ppm was 1580 now I got a TDS meter a while ago and never really got into the whole ppm thing. So that 1580 ppm in the soil I'm guessing could be salt buildup? I know that 450 ppm is too low for feeds that's about all I know lol so would that high ppm runoff have anything to do with my issue?
 
..Legend- that yellowing is definitely not N defc.,.. N is highly mobile in the plant, and will start from the lower leaves first,... tops look worst of all, from what I can see in the whole plant pic,.... Contrary to what's said about organics, only true well made TLO soil is "self adjusting", and that's because of the microbial influences and nutrient cycling in that well dialed soil,...like Nammy said, with organic nute's, it's the 'crobes that have to break them down into forms that are absorbable by the plant,.. if the soil pH goes out of whack, the herd suffers, and so does nute availability, even if it's "technically" in there... I've run the GO Box as well, and I can tell you for certain that the feeds are acidic, just like synthetics, just not as bad as some brands,...adding regular fresh inoculant or EWC poop tea helps keep the soil herd populations up, and lends some stability to pH, but it's still not TLO,... I recommend getting an actual in-soil pH probe, like the Accurate 8, nothing beats direct measurement! I dislike the run-off method because of it's many potential sources of measurement error, and you have to waterlog the damn soil to get the run-off!... however, there is a improved run-off testing procedure here, in the sticky-notes at the top of this section,... the test drops, those are the color chart type? For feeds that are already murky, it's really not a good choice, as the colors will be tainted by the organic nute's; in clear, low color hydro nutrients, it's much more accurate,...Up side, with organic nute's, salt build up is far less likely,....
--- this yellowing looks a lot like S defc.,... it's an immobile nute', affecting the whole plant often, but tops always worst,... the necrotic spots and red blush have me thinking P defc.,... the color might be part of normal expression, if this cross is known for it,... Huh, 450 ppm's is pretty light, but you have 1580 for runoff; was that collected from a clean saucer? this is often one of the big error sources in run-off testing... and your test of run-off was actually more alkaline? unusual!... those numbers calculate to about 7.5 for the soil,... try that improved run-off test to confirm,... we need to figure if you have defc.'s caused by pH lockout, or plain lack of! Under neutral to slightly alkaline pH, Fe, Cu, and Zn get dicey, even P has a twitchy zone here,... S is readily available though, as is Ca and Mg,... So, let me know what you got if you retest the pH using that guide,... it might be just a lack-of thing, and if so, epsom salts will cover the S (MgSO4), and maybe a high PK flower booster is called for,... I used some on my GO Box grow, though it wasn't organic, only a few doses were used at reduced conc., so I just didn't care! Buds fattened nicely, and that I do care about :biggrin:....
 
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try that improved run-off test to confirm,... we need to figure if you have defc.'s caused by pH lockout, or plain lack of! Under neutral to slightly alkaline pH, Fe, Cu, and Zn get dicey, even P has a twitchy zone here,... S is readily available though, as is Ca and Mg,... So, let me know what you got if you retest the pH using that guide,... it might be just a lack-of thing, and if so, epsom salts will cover the S (MgSO4), and maybe a high PK flower booster is called for,... I used some on my GO Box grow, though it wasn't organic, only a few doses were used at reduced conc., so I just didn't care! Buds fattened nicely, and that I do care about :biggrin:....
Thanks for the in depth response I will try the other run off method again once she dries out a bit. I definitely need to get it figured out though since it always happens, even if I cant fix this grow ill know for the others. I do use the color chart PH drops so I will be sure to just run clear water through to get a better reading. Also I will get a new saucer just to make sure it isn't contaminated as this one could have been. I did check the ph using the same method on my other plant and it was around 7.0 also but I didn't wait the hour to run more water through. After this go around when I get some money up I will get the soil probe I stayed away from them because it seems to be a hassle with all of the calibration and checking for accuracy but in hindsight its way easier to do that then to try and fix a multitude of deficiency's every grow. I didn't think I was underfeeding because I'm giving them full strength every time but maybe that's still not enough and I might need to up the dose. Thanks again I will update this in a couple days when I run more water through. I really do appreciate all of the help!
 
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