Grow Mediums Root rot or not? Vote now! ( no really, i need help)

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3 weeks old. Rdwc with a chiller? Rez temp doesn't go above 68. PH stays at 5.8. Cutting edge solutions nutrients line. (The micro is red so I'm wondering if it's staining the root) hydroguard @ 2ml per gal. (added first when mixing all the nutrients; now I've read that isn't good for the bacteria?) Orca as well for beneficials
 

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5X (3"x1.5") bubble boy stones with 1110 gph air pump
 
I vote for nute staining, not root rot.
The hydroguard should keep rot away.
I use clorox as a cheaper, simpler alternative, 2 drops per gallon per day.
Hydroguard uses good bacteria to keep the bad bacteria away.
Clorox kills all germs with chemical brute force.
 
I vote for nute staining, not root rot.
The hydroguard should keep rot away.
I use clorox as a cheaper, simpler alternative, 2 drops per gallon per day.
Hydroguard uses good bacteria to keep the bad bacteria away.
Clorox kills all germs with chemical brute force.
The thing that concerns me, is them sticking together like that. A sign of pythium?
 
A sign of pythium?
Not by itself. And not all slimy areas are pythium spp. Roots look pretty good.

I have used a variety of different bacterial inoculation products (Hydroguard, Great White, Orca, Recharge, etc) and have found that Hydroguard (with its single strain) works best. I believe establishing a monoculture of inoculated Bacillus amyloliquefaciens outcompetes pythium and its allies more effectively than a diverse Rhizosphere using multiple strains (counter-intuitively and contra soil and other methodologies). IMHO, YMMV, etc.

Edit: Some use Sothern AG's fungicide as a cheaper substitute for Hydroguard and report good results.
 
Not by itself. And not all slimy areas are pythium spp. Roots look pretty good.

I have used a variety of different bacterial inoculation products (Hydroguard, Great White, Orca, Recharge, etc) and have found that Hydroguard (with its single strain) works best. I believe establishing a monoculture of inoculated Bacillus amyloliquefaciens outcompetes pythium and its allies more effectively than a diverse Rhizosphere using multiple strains (counter-intuitively and contra soil and other methodologies). IMHO, YMMV, etc.

Edit: Some use Sothern AG's fungicide as a cheaper substitute for Hydroguard and report good results.

So, are you saying a mixture of orca & hydroguard probably isn't the best to do? My hydroguard bottle doesn't have a date where its supposed, which scares me. Came from Amazon..
I haven't done a rez change yet (12 days) my common sense says a complete rez change will reset any bacteria colony that has formed.. am I correct in thinking this? I have topped off with fresh soup, same as original mix
 
So, are you saying a mixture of orca & hydroguard probably isn't the best to do? My hydroguard bottle doesn't have a date where its supposed, which scares me. Came from Amazon..
I haven't done a rez change yet (12 days) my common sense says a complete rez change will reset any bacteria colony that has formed.. am I correct in thinking this? I have topped off with fresh soup, same as original mix
I would do one or the other on the inoculant. Consider an enzyme product as well. I dose Sens-zyme at stretch and the at mid-flower. Helps the bacteria cleave organic molecules and reduce slimy areas.

Weekly res changes do not significantly disturb overall bacterial development on the roots. To the extent that some biofilms (nanometers thick colonies of bacteria, protozoa and other microorganisms in a complex and inter-dependent community) are dislodged, they build back up in a matter of hours (or less). Cyclic disruption of the biofilms (i.e ecological disturbance) probably also leads to more vigorous development overall.
 
Also, yes - if your bottle doesn't have an expy date I would consider getting a new one.
 
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