PLEASE HELP!!! Root rot during flower....should I transplant????

[Autoflower Noob]

Hey guys,

Sorry for opening a new thread but I need help fast and didn’t know what else to do.

I have 2 Northern Blue Auto plants in flower (day 51) and one of them has probably root rot because last time it was watered was exactly one week ago and the pot still feels heavy and many leaves are turning yellow, while the other plant is very healthy and has been watered two additional times since last week and is ready for another watering.

There is definitely something wrong with the drainage because the top half of the pot is bone-dry while the pot is still heavy. I was waiting until she uses up the water at the bottom of the pot before watering again but I’m afraid that the roots on the top half of the container will totally dry out and get damaged while the roots at the bottom of the pot will rot if I wait any longer. What should I do???

Should I try to water her just a tiny bit so that only the dried out roots in the top half of the pot will get some moisture and hopefully the plant will use up the water at the bottom of the pot?

Or

Should I take the plant out of the pot and see what is going on down there and maybe put in some new soil so that the roots get some air??

I know that transplanting in flower is a no go, but I’m afraid if I don’t act fast the plant will die.

PLEASE ADVISE!!!

 

[bad dragon bzzz]

does the pot stink?

 

[Autoflower Noob]

No it does not, but its so strange because now i looked at the bottom of the pot and the roots seems to be dried out.
Now I just watered the plant a bit, but I think that it will not survive for long :-(

 

[Eyes on Fire]

if you can stick a pinky into the bottom of the pot or something and if its not slimey nor smells its not root rot.

 

[Autoflower Noob]

I cannot stick my pinky in because the holes are too small, but it does not seem to smell.
Im not quite sure but I think I have seen something whitish slimey a week ago.

 

[Autoflower Noob]

The problem is that the leaves are droopy the whole time and I was hoping that when the plant uses up the water at the bottom the leaves will perk up again, but unfortunately they never did.

 

[Papa Munch]

I had a similar problem with my first grow. I drilled more holes into the sides and bottom of the pot......with the plant still in it. Just be careful and go smooth and slow if you do it. I also used too much vermiculite which to me, held too much water. Hopefully this will get taken care of and be a successful grow!

 

[Autoflower Noob]

Thanks for the advice...will try to get a drill and add some holes.
Do you think that the plant can still recover? In the pictures the plant looks healthier and greener than in real life.

 

[Autoflower Noob]

Hey guys, this morning I noticed that now both of my plants are yellowing fast and I realized the cause of the problem. As I explained in my first thread, https://www.autoflower.org/index.ph...grow-of-delicious-northern-blue-lights.46947/ the PH of my runoff was constantly above 8 so since last week I tried to counter act by lowering the PH of the water to 5.5 and kept it that low in order to bring the PH of my soil down (Big Mistake). This must have shocked and damaged the roots which led to a nutrient lock out because up until then both of my plants were healthy and green.

Now I’m thinking of flushing both of my plants with PH adjusted water of 6.5. My biggest problem is that my tap water PH is 8.5 and I grow all organic and use plagron lemon kick to bring the PH down but the citric acid is unstable and does not keep the water PH down for long like phosphoric acid. So I don’t know if it makes any sense to adjust the PH of the water with citric acid at all but my tap water PH is so extremely high that I just don't know what to do

I feel like if I don’t flush, the plants will continue to degrade and eventually die but on the other hand does it even make sense to flush with 8.5 PH water? What do you guys think I should do??

Please Help!!!

 

[Waira]

Hey Auto'-- ...no transplanting at this point, the root shock will finish her off very likely,... it certainly looks like a pH issue, which can still happen even with AN's "self buffering" nute's....and the roots in turn might be damaged, causing the slow uptake, and magnifying defc. issues, along with the pH lock-out effect (off pH renders some nute's unabsorbable); the water issue needs looking at too-- first, with that pH out of the tap, it sounds like it's pretty hard water... do you have an EC or TDS meter? A reading of that will tell us much! The hardness of the water can help and hurt, depending on just how high the EC/ppm's are,... hardness involves basically how much dissolve minerals are in there, namely CaCO3 (a little MgCO3),.. it's the carbonates (-CO3) part that's involved with buffering pH,... could be why to have difficulty bringing it down, and yeah, milder acids don't work as well as the more heavy duty ones, usually phosphoric acid,... One problem with measuring pH by run-off is that this method is prone to several sources of error,.. best thing to get is a quality soil pH probe, like an Accurate 8,...direct measurements can't be beat!
...lower leaves look N defc. by those symptoms,... overall paleness is something ongoing, and could be a few things,... But first, a flush might be wise, and best to use distilled or RO water to cut that tap water with, and bring the hardness down some, reducing the mineral content will help reduce the amount of corrective solutions needed,... it's a choice of lesser evils, flushing will waterlog the soil (roots dislike smothering), but will purge the excess stuff out of there,...use about 1.5-2 times your pot volume at first, then retest,..in fact, beforehand, do a test using this method- (https://www.autoflower.org/index.ph...-for-run-off-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/... then let us know what you got,... you facilitate more rapid draining by placing the pot on newspaper (1/4" stack) with a couple paper towels on top, to help with wicking,....this will help pull water out much faster! .... the last pour through should have about 1/4 strength nute solution in it,...