Not sure whats wrong

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I am running 3 of the same strain. Same watering schedule since the beginning on all 3. This is the only one that is this way.
They are 35 days from sprout.

Drooping
Light brown spot
red stems and red leaf veins

Happy Frog
PH runoff 6.4
Temp 75-81°
RH 50%

Any help saving her would be appreciated!
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That is not much of a problem. You may have just bruised it?
 
That is not much of a problem. You may have just bruised it?
Tips are starting to point down. Really droopy as well. Red stems and red fan leaf veins. Nitrogen tox?
 

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Tips are starting to point down. Really droopy as well. Red stems and red fan leaf veins. Nitrogen tox?
I don't think so. Why would you think that are you feeding them and did not state it above? FFHF can be a little hot but not usually a big problem. Nothing to do about it anyhow. Flushing FFOF or FFHF is a big mistake.
 
The brown spot looks like water damage from water sitting on the leaf under the light
& the tips dont look that curled down,
Looks good, Keeper-lit
 
I don't think so. Why would you think that are you feeding them and did not state it above? FFHF can be a little hot but not usually a big problem. Nothing to do about it anyhow. Flushing FFOF or FFHF is a big mistake.
I didn't put it I apologize. FF trio. haven't started bloom yet tho. And the yellowing bottom leaves and stunted growth on this one is why I was leaning that way.
 
The brown spot looks like water damage from water sitting on the leaf under the light
& the tips dont look that curled down,
Looks good, Keeper-lit
there wasnt any water there. they hadn't gotten water in 2-3 days before this. this just appeared
 
Well that is a horse of a different color. FFHF does not need any fertigation for two or three weeks. You need to learn how to water/fertigate.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

Then you need to understand how to use Balanced salt based fertilizers. Once you get soil out of balance it is hard to fix. Less is more!

They don't look that bad to me but damage can take days or more to show up. Stop fertigating and use PHed water until the plants start to look recovered and hungry. Leaves will flatten out (maybe depending on genetics) and the plant will look overall a bit limey or pale green.




:goodluck:
 
Well that is a horse of a different color. FFHF does not need any fertigation for two or three weeks. You need to learn how to water/fertigate.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

Then you need to understand how to use Balanced salt based fertilizers. Once you get soil out of balance it is hard to fix. Less is more!

They don't look that bad to me but damage can take days or more to show up. Stop fertigating and use PHed water until the plants start to look recovered and hungry. Leaves will flatten out (maybe depending on genetics) and the plant will look overall a bit limey or pale green.




:goodluck:
I started feeding at week 3. 1/4 of recommendation on their chart. I water based exactly on your reply. I found you had responded that on another post i was reading when i was just starting out lol and i have it saved lol. When i was doing research before. But definitely thank you! If it helps PPMS in runoff were lower in this one then the other 2. But seriously thank you
 
Some plants just have problems with what you feed them. I feed six plants off the same reservoir and there is usually one that is not happy. I try to please the majority. It is faster to make corrections in hydro not so in soil. If I could lift a heavy pot of soil I would grow TLS in an earth box. But like all styles it takes time to learn the specifics to each one. Give a holler if things continue to get worse.
 
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