New Grower need help with drying

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stone blue

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My ladies are at the harvest stage but mother nature is not helping.
The trichs are exactly where they should be but due to rain for 2days and looking at 3 more days of high humidity and rain I had to bring them in. Getting too wet.
I haven't watered them for a wk. Beyond my control the buds got soaked but the dirt is dry.

I've read about putting them in a freezer, a paper bag in the sun ( no sun here) and a couple of other ideas like hanging them in my grow cab w/warm air flow.

The best idea I can come up hanging them in a box in front of a dehumidifier close to my A/C register. It has good cool dry air flow this way.
I have a down flow furnace so I could put them in the floor vents. I have no probs with the smell; I kind of like it.
I have a few nubs but the main colas are about 6" -8" and 3" round trimmed. REALLY don't want to mess it up.

I'm probably over thinking this. I should run the AC and put them in a dark closet and wait.
 
Hang them in a room with the dehumidifier on low and a fan circulating air, but not blowing directly on them. when the stems snap instead of bend or right before if feels like they are getting to the snapping point clip the buds off and toss them in some brown paper shopping bags, enough in each bag to line the bottom with a single layer of buds. Make sure to open the bag once or twice a day and shake the buds around. After a few days in the bags you can put them in mason jars or whatever else long term storage you have set aside for them. Keep an eye on them the whole time and remove anything with mold in it. Anythign with mold isn't worth saving, just toss it. Just remember you want to dry the buds out slow, not fast, but also not so slow they mold (jeeze, way to be clear ya stoner....)

Did that help at all? Here's a link to the harvesting / curing section.
https://www.autoflower.org/forum1/forum23/
 
Thanks to JM and to you MR. Piggy.
I'm thinking maybe JM is a Med. grower being he stated he has to "track actual number of plants".
I'm not that big of grower; just for me and maybe a good Buddy now and then. LOL
I am a firm believer of "KISS". So Mr. Piggy I'll try your way. Thanks again.
BTW...I have more coming to bud in the next couple of wks. so I can maybe get my own way down for my weather conidtions.
By then it will be 90deg. outside and a whole new game.
 
Both ways will work. Just as long as it isn't too humid where you dry and that they can dry slowly. Use your hyrometer, assuming you have one, to know what the humidity is in that room/area. Basic rule of thumb is one day per 10% of humidity, and then plus a day. For example: Your drying space is 50% humidity, that's 5 days, for each 10% of humidity, then plus one day= A total of six days of drying at 50% humidity. See what I mean? So if you're more at 30-40% humidity then it will take 4-5 days instead of six. Optimum dry is said to occur around 60% humidity which = 7 days of a nice slow dry.

Just make sure you have good air flow, but not so much they are just swaying around in the damn breeze, that will dry them too quickly and unevenly. I still suggest reading that link JM posted. It's chock full of knowledge and isn't that long. Critical research is key, my friend.
 
That link jm shared with you is solid gold. When I'm cutting down a large crop, or something that needs to meet a quality standard (like when I'm growing meds for people) I go slow dry and humidity monitored mason jar cure for at least four weeks, eight if I can wait. When I'm just whacking an auto or two I hang dry and paper bag em. It's just once you reach a critical mass of buds the hydrometer starts saving time and bud quality.
 
As you and the Squid pointed out "large crops".
I do 4-6 in my hydro for 4wks. then into dirt. These are my 1st. AFs. Didn't have much luck with reg. beans.
Too much help from my local hydro shop. I do have a hyrometer; they made sure I had EVERYTHING I needed or not.
I just started in Feb. with AFs. but I did post what I learned so far about the way i do it.
Thanks again to all of you.
 
Thanks for seeing through the bullshit and growing your own, welcome to your new lifelong obsession :smokeit:
 
Hydro then soil? Hmmm. What's the idea behind that?
 
Here's why and how. I posted it under the wrong thread.. I'm a nube ..LOL Plus I hav all the stuff from my local hydro shop...LOL again.
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stone blue
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Join DateFeb 2012Locationmidwest USAPosts9Liked12 times
I don't know if anybody gave you a guideline but i'm on 3rd. AF using this formula. I do 4wks. in my DWC then into dirt.
I'd do the complete grow in DWC but it's too hot in my grow rm in the summer. I've read most of the answers to keep it cool but don't want to pay the ele. comp. any more than I have to. ( I built up my ele. bill last sept.-Aug. slowly. I ave. about 100-125KWs extra with my grow.) I went from CFLs to LED. I have the Xtrem LED 130. I do small grows 2-3 plants. I keep my LED about 18"-20" above the tops. I posted my other equipment in my 1st. 2 posts and I'm doing lowryders.
Hope this will help.




I have a 100% germ. rate with the AFs doing this...
I germinate seeds like most people do; my cable box in a covered baggie. Temps are 80-90 degs. When rts. are 1/4" they go into Rapid Rooter Plugs.( I like these better than RW.) I put them in a vented Tupeware container on a heating pad covered with a towel. Vent 3-4Xs a day. When they grow above the tops of the plugs I put them under a 125CFL about 6" above til 1st. the searated leaf is complete and real leaf is starting. Keep Rooters moist at all times. I put the Rooters in my plastic hydro baskets w/clay hydroton. When I go to dirt I plant plastic basket and all. @

I'm using Gen Hydro products. I have a GenHydro DWC.
I use the Flora nutes and camag+, nector and Cannazym in water; Flora Nova Grow/Bloom gums up my pump filter.

These MLs. are per Gal.
Here's my feeding schedule. Time periods are for reference; don't hold me to exact wks. but there are really close.

After the searated leaf is complete and 1st. "real" leaf is starting, I put them in the hydro. under LED. 1st wk. I do 1ml. of micro, bloom and camg+. 2mls. nectar.
2nd.wk. the same.

I R&R H2o and start my 3wk. with 2mls. micro, bloom, nectar and canna. . I start using Spray and Grow 3Xs wk. (Spray and Grow is a micro-nute)
I R&R H2o 10days this time. If everything is good to go I do 5 mls. of all: micro,blm,canna,camg, and nectar. And Spay and Grow every day; that really helps growth BUT stop using it when they go into the flower mode.
I R&R H2o 10days again.
By 6th-7th. wk. they'll be 9-10" tall and roots are about 9" long. I can sex them now. (note...this is a guide for my L.R.s All plants will be different) right ????

Flush with dist. H2o for 5 days and put them in FF Frog dirt. When I go to dirt I plant plastic basket and all.
No nutes the 1st. 2 wks. just H2o. to make sure transplant is doing good. I haven't lost any plants so far.
9th. wk. or so, is when I switch to FloraNova nutes. I start small with the NovaGrow.. 1ml.per gal. camg+, and nectar in my tea. 12th.wk. 2mls. of each.
This is my 3rd. AF I've done this way so I'm not even close to being a "pro". My 1st. was experimental and I put them into flower mode too early. They never grew taller than 11" with very small buds.
This time I held off on the FloraNova Bloom til the 13th. wk. or so.. My ladies are 16" tall and couldn't get any more flowers on them. The main colas are 8" and about 2" rnd. I'm watching the trichs as I type.
Next time I'm going to LST and SOG them.
I hope this helps and if anybody wants to tell me more, I'm all ears.
Sorry no pics.
BTW... Now it's too hot in house. This grow I'm doing is all dirt til it cools down again.
I still germinate the same and I use the Rapid Rooters in the baskets w/hydorton and plant them in 4-5gal. pots after they're about 6-7" under my LED light. Then I put them outside.
I keep them in the baskets so air and nutes can help out the roots.
 
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