Little help here?

[Builder0101]

@Proph

Problem: Yellowing leaves. Yellowing between veins.

Medium/grow method: Coco based 60%coco, 20%OF, 20%pearlite. 6-3gal fabric pots in 2x4 bottom feed tray.

Feed: and supplements used: Tiger Bloom 2-8-4, Grow Big 6-4-4. 1x week: Epsom 1 tsp/gal, Cal Mag ¼ tsp/gal, fulvic ½ tsp/gal, humic ½ tsp/gal, recharge ½ tsp/gal. 500-550PPM adjusted for base water. 6.0-6.3 PH.

water source: Well water which is 550PPM. I cut this with dehu water and or dechlorinated “city water” to about 350PPM.

Strain/age:
1st photo is of 6 plants in tray.
Mid flower The next 5 photos are of a green pheno of RocBud Purple Roc Berry (most affected),
Next 5 photos are of 2 RocBud purple phenos of Purple Roc Berry,
Last photo is a friends Gorilla Squash which is a little younger than the others but is perfect.

light used: Mars Hydro SP 3000 one is centered over these plants. I have 2 more on either side over other plants. 16”. 18/6 schedule.

Climate: 82f/ 50%rh. Good air movement.

Additional info: The 1st plant had some bottom yellow. I added a little Grow Big and top watered. I also added about a cup of chicken shit compost and top watered again. 4 days ago I took them all out and water only with recharge to about 30% runoff. Runoff was 6.3 and about 2000 PPM. Last night I did a water only bottom water.

 

[Builder0101]

Perhaps I should alternate between the Tiger Bloom and the Grow Big 2-8-4 and 0.0-0.5-0.7. Too much Phosphorus? Instructions say every other day. I water every day with the nutes. Gonna try and hold off on watering until I get some suggestions I guess. I tend to get perfect plants until this stage. They usually finish ok or great but not perfect. OH also the coco has been rinsed and buffered of course. I dont see any evidence of nute burn...

 

[Proph]

Brotha! Sooner or later you need to pick a grow style. Mixing soil and coco is not recommend. Two completely different mediums that require different feeding/ph/watering schedules.... 2000 ppms will lock out or fry most plants, especially autos.. There are several things going on and it's too hard to pin point just one ( like phosphorus or potassium). That's much easier to do at the first signs of leave issues.. If you are going to use bottled nutes, keep your ppms under 500.. If you are going to top dress (in soil, not coco, or a mix of soil and coco) then do it before you plant the seed. It shouldn't need another one if done correctly.. You need to pull back on all of the stuff you're adding into your feeds. I know the urge is to add more or do something to try and help, but 9 out of 10 times that makes things worse. I would only add stuff to those pots when you know specifically how the stuff works. If/when you have questions feel free to ask.. I'm happy to help bro!! Inbox me or whatever, but you gotta get past adding all of these different things. If that's how you want to grow (constantly feeding/adding/adjusting) then hydro might be a better fit . That way you can feed every day and mix nutrients and check levels and all that.. Autos live for about 90 days.. They don't need much from us! As practice for your next grow I would flush those pots down to a normal ppm level and feed at a normal ppm level. Try to nurse them to the finish line... Next grow, focus on picking one medium and one feeding method.. Either soil or coco.. Dry nutrients (top dresses) or bottled nutrients.. And then keeping the ppms of feeds under 500.. Combining all of these at once has never turned out well (that I've seen)..

 

[Builder0101]

Brotha! Sooner or later you need to pick a grow style. Mixing soil and coco is not recommend. Two completely different mediums that require different feeding/ph/watering schedules.... 2000 ppms will lock out or fry most plants, especially autos.. There are several things going on and it's too hard to pin point just one ( like phosphorus or potassium). That's much easier to do at the first signs of leave issues.. If you are going to use bottled nutes, keep your ppms under 500.. If you are going to top dress (in soil, not coco, or a mix of soil and coco) then do it before you plant the seed. It shouldn't need another one if done correctly.. You need to pull back on all of the stuff you're adding into your feeds. I know the urge is to add more or do something to try and help, but 9 out of 10 times that makes things worse. I would only add stuff to those pots when you know specifically how the stuff works. If/when you have questions feel free to ask.. I'm happy to help bro!! Inbox me or whatever, but you gotta get past adding all of these different things. If that's how you want to grow (constantly feeding/adding/adjusting) then hydro might be a better fit . That way you can feed every day and mix nutrients and check levels and all that.. Autos live for about 90 days.. They don't need much from us! As practice for your next grow I would flush those pots down to a normal ppm level and feed at a normal ppm level. Try to nurse them to the finish line... Next grow, focus on picking one medium and one feeding method.. Either soil or coco.. Dry nutrients (top dresses) or bottled nutrients.. And then keeping the ppms of feeds under 500.. Combining all of these at once has never turned out well (that I've seen)..

Yes. So as you understand the runoff was high I assume because I went half the grow without flushing. I will do another flush tonight. And tomorrow I will feed at 450-500 wo going over 500. I will stop the additional inputs but think I will keep the recharge 1x week. The topdress was to address the one plant with yellowing leaves starting at the bottom. Since they were all fed the same and only that one had issues I was pretty sure it had higher nitrogen requirements. At that time it was the only plant that was not perfect. Thank you. Any more thoughts you have are appreciated.

 

[Proph]

Yes. So as you understand the runoff was high I assume because I went half the grow without flushing. I will do another flush tonight. And tomorrow I will feed at 450-500 wo going over 500. I will stop the additional inputs but think I will keep the recharge 1x week. The topdress was to address the one plant with yellowing leaves starting at the bottom. Since they were all fed the same and only that one had issues I was pretty sure it had higher nitrogen requirements. At that time it was the only plant that was not perfect. Thank you. Any more thoughts you have are appreciated.

Your plants are in flower.. Nitrogen is not needed at all.. Very little if anything ever while in flower.. Yellowing or signs of deficiencies DOES NOT automatically mean to add more of something. It's an auto.. Any leaf issues are most likely due to over feeding.. In 3 yrs of being in the infirmary, I've only seen a few under fed plants. Every plant is different. They will not all like the same feeds at the same levels. As long as you understand how recharge works and what it does then keep using it.. Just know that while using it you're still feeding your plants from two different food sources.

 

[Builder0101]

Your plants are in flower.. Nitrogen is not needed at all.. Very little if anything ever while in flower.. Yellowing or signs of deficiencies DOES NOT automatically mean to add more of something. It's an auto.. Any leaf issues are most likely due to over feeding.. In 3 yrs of being in the infirmary, I've only seen a few under fed plants. Every plant is different. They will not all like the same feeds at the same levels. As long as you understand how recharge works and what it does then keep using it.. Just know that while using it you're still feeding your plants from two different food sources.

Right. The Big Bloom is 0.0-0.7-0.5.
Never really considered going zero nitrogen after stretch. Perhaps ill try.