Help with fastbuds diagnosis! LSD and CBD Crack

[chris webb]

There are 2 here.. not sure the problem.. First 3 photos are of the LsD.. Last 3 are of the cbd crack..
Both of them are 7 weeks and 6 days old.
240w Quantum board@20 inches Full power.
3 gal fabric pot
Ocean forest/happy frog mix with 30% added perlite.
Ph around 6.3
Ppm last water at 700
Temps are 74°F(fluctuates 10 degrees lower at night)
And 50°rh

LSD: no feed for first 3 weeks, then fed quarter strength Botanicare Kind Bloom every week after(water once every 5 days or so)
CBD crack: no feed for first 3 weeks. Follwed with 2 weeks of Hydroponic-research veg+bloom Dirty formula, then switched to Botanicarez Kind bloom to stop feeding nitrogen.
I never gave the lsd any extra nitrogen other than what the soil provided. My previous lsd in similar environments was SUPER nitro fried. So i cut back on giving the lsds any extra nitrogen.
Any thoughts on a diagnosis for the two?

 

[Kyote]

Looks like close to harvest to me. Thats what leaves do towards the end of the life of the plant. They die. I was told years ago that the plant is using up all the energy stored in the fan leaves. That was with photo's outdoors anyways and I don't see why it would be any different. See what others have to say

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Yes, Genetics and reaching end of life both cause leaves that look like some of yours but I think you have a couple of things going on here. I would try to bump your temperatures up a bit if you can 68°F night and 78°F day. Drop the PH to 6.0, and give a balanced feeding for late bloom. You are almost done.

 

[chris webb]

Yes, Genetics and reaching end of life both cause leaves that look like some of yours but I think you have a couple of things going on here. I would try to bump your temperatures up a bit if you can 68°F night and 78°F day. Drop the PH to 6.0, and give a balanced feeding for late bloom. You are almost done.

Not sure a safe alternative to a heater. Wife doesnt want a heater running all night in the back room. (Safety reasons, we heve kids) Maybe an oil heater? The temps i have are ambient temps from my light, a blurple in the corner, and whatever heat and energy the plants are putting off.
Ill try to work on that one if possible..

When you say balanced feeding. what do you mean? As in more? This will be harvest #2 for me, so my questions will be in abundance lol
Also, would dropping my ph to 6.0 this late to flower be safe? Ive read around that with that type of fluctuation towards the end it could stress her rather bad.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Not sure a safe alternative to a heater. Wife doesnt want a heater running all night in the back room. (Safety reasons, we heve kids) Maybe an oil heater? The temps i have are ambient temps from my light, a blurple in the corner, and whatever heat and energy the plants are putting off.
Ill try to work on that one if possible..

When you say balanced feeding. what do you mean? As in more? This will be harvest #2 for me, so my questions will be in abundance lol
Also, would dropping my ph to 6.0 this late to flower be safe? Ive read around that with that type of fluctuation towards the end it could stress her rather bad.

Yes I use an oil filled heater when needed. It is important to keep the components of your nutrients in proper balance. It is the reason I preach using a single vendor for nutrients and use their ENTIRE line according to their charts. They spend millions of dollars developing their line to work together take advantage of that. So lets say you are using 70% strength nutrients (because autos can need less than the full amount suggested by the manufacturer) in order to stay in balance you use 70% of part A, 70% of part B and 70% of any additives. The nutrients remain in balance with each other. This is all about Liebig's Law of the minimum. You are dangerously close to locking out iron at 6.3 and dropping your PH to 6.0 will not stress your plants.

 

[chris webb]

Yes I use an oil filled heater when needed. It is important to keep the components of your nutrients in proper balance. It is the reason I preach using a single vendor for nutrients and use their ENTIRE line according to their charts. They spend millions of dollars developing their line to work together take advantage of that. So lets say you are using 70% strength nutrients (because autos can need less than the full amount suggested by the manufacturer) in order to stay in balance you use 70% of part A, 70% of part B and 70% of any additives. The nutrients remain in balance with each other. This is all about Liebig's Law of the minimum. You are dangerously close to locking out iron at 6.3 and dropping your PH to 6.0 will not stress your plants.

Ive always readand been under the assumption that soil ph is suppose to run best between 6.0 and 7.0

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Ive always readand been under the assumption that soil ph is suppose to run best between 6.0 and 7.0

According to and Happy Frog they are treating this more like a hydro method not soil?

We see a lot of inconsistency in these products from . I personally think you should run completely soil-less or completely real soil.

 

[chris webb]

According to and Happy Frog they are treating this more like a hydro method not soil?
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We see a lot of inconsistency in these products from . I personally think you should run completely soil-less or completely real soil.

Oh thats weird! Thanks for sharing that! Yesterday i went to grow store andpicked up a higher quality soil.(i think, i hope) potters gold. Made in michigan. (Didnt have the m3 mix i was after) im trying to keep it simple. Wife, 2 kids, work and school. Otherwise dwc, hydro, soiless would be a go to, just seems to be a little to much to handle lol.

Completely real soil as in better product from a bag? Or "go outside n start shovelin" real soil?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Oh thats weird! Thanks for sharing that! Yesterday i went to grow store andpicked up a higher quality soil.(i think, i hope) potters gold. Made in michigan. (Didnt have the m3 mix i was after) im trying to keep it simple. Wife, 2 kids, work and school. Otherwise dwc, hydro, soiless would be a go to, just seems to be a little to much to handle lol.

Completely real soil as in better product from a bag? Or "go outside n start shovelin" real soil?

Real soil is a study on its own and beyond what i am willing to type. I have an outdoor vegetable/flower garden that I have been amending with organic inputs for over 15 years. It truley qualifies as "Living Organic Soil" I used to pot some up and carry it into the grow room. I cannot lift heavy pots like that because of my bad back and a major reason for my moving to hydro. Pumps do all of the heavy lifting now. So to answer your question yes, if you have soil like that to shovel by all means do it. I think with your busy life style coco and auto-pots would be a good style of growing for you. Hydro is easier than you think once you get it down. You just have nutrients in all of your waterings.

 

[Sour D]

Maybe change your light cycle so the lights are on at night? Off in the warmest time of day.