Help / Orange Spots / Organic Grow /

Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Messages
5
Reputation
0
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Hi y’all pleasure to be a part of the group for my first grow.
My issue: orange spots on one out of 4 plants
During 2nd week of veg (day 11 Planted taproots 2/17 issue was obvious 2/28
DETAILS:
Lights: HLG (actual watt:600) (dimmed to 30%) (20 inches above canopy)
Soil: organic (natures living soil + roots organic) (5 gallon 1/3 filled with natures living soil mixed with roots, rest filled with roots organic, pretty much the directions on the bag) top dressed with organic worm castings
Nutrition & water: I sprinkled Great White which is a variety of beneficial bacteria and myco in the hole I put the taproot in (final 5 gallon container)
I tried my best to be conservative with watering, no runoff, moist and let it get dry up top before watering again. Watered one more time with half strength Great White and table spoon of organic unsulphured molasses (wholesome molasses) which contains sugar for microbes and also calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium. I mixed it in a gallon and split it between the 4 plants. Next watering I mixed some worm castings in water and let it sit in a gallon of spring water for 36 hours and then split it between 4 plants and watered little more with half gallon of some brita filtered water.
Humidity: 60-70%
Temperature: def had a few moments where for about 30 minutes to an hour that temperatures got up to bout 89f degrees I managed to tweak the environment to keep humidity between 60-70% and temperature to 80-85 sometimes touching 86 degrees

I added pictures of the problem and also what it looked like before. Rest of my plants look okay. I can provide pics of those as well if it will help. I ruled out fungus because it didn’t rub off. And the orange spot is on top of leaf and dented in a bit.
 

Attachments

  • C6E3CE33-5FFB-4FF3-98BC-805C16EB198D.jpeg
    C6E3CE33-5FFB-4FF3-98BC-805C16EB198D.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 40
  • 6102400F-ED9A-4ECF-B993-C39C12B2AF5D.jpeg
    6102400F-ED9A-4ECF-B993-C39C12B2AF5D.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 48
  • 5AFFE515-AC6D-4611-9BC5-94B3C5080931.jpeg
    5AFFE515-AC6D-4611-9BC5-94B3C5080931.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 35
  • D4EEC3F6-2F7B-436E-9E97-92B786B83FE7.jpeg
    D4EEC3F6-2F7B-436E-9E97-92B786B83FE7.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 37
  • 8CE7B3D2-46F9-4DDE-B898-D583D6E8226A.jpeg
    8CE7B3D2-46F9-4DDE-B898-D583D6E8226A.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 37
my research says it could be a calcium deficiency but I assumed between the filtered water, worm castings which has calcium and also the molasses which is 10% calcium, that would be sufficient....
 
For those thinking it’s a ph problem, I’ve read it’s difficult to test organic soil for ph and that the microbia pretty much take care of things. I have a liquid ph tester but it’s for liquids and a ppm meter if I should test something lemme know. I’ve tested the filtered water at 6.5 ph (although it was jumpy as fuck at first)
 
@Dingdong4eva :welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome:Think about what you have going on here. This is brand new living soil with everything your young plant could possibly need? So why would you think deficiency? Don't worry new growers do this all of the time. Too much of something mimics too little.

2021-01-23_16-05-01.jpg


By adding the GW and Molasses you revved up the soil too hot for the seedling. The symptoms you see in the leaves happened days ago and may not be over yet.

The good news is most of the time the soil will buffer and balance out the nutrients as long as you give it a healthy dose of LITFA.

PH 6.5 is good but what do you mean by filtered jumpy?
 
@Mañ'O'Green I’ve read a lot of your stuff, thanks for your reply! Too much of something mimics too little makes sense this happened after the 2nd molasses watering which does have nutes, 10% calcium 20% iron, 10% mag, 8% potassium, and progressed rather quickly in a matter of hours. There was some droplets too on the leaf from the watering, i wiped em half assedly. There’s 4 different strains all reacting differently, it’s incredible. rest of the three are okay though. I think one has a mutation which I’m curious about
I will practice LITFA (my guess to it’s meaning was the opposite of what it actually mean haha)
>Jumpy as in, the ph meter says swirl the water insert meter and let sit and wait for ph and so I put it in and it’s shows 8.2 and then it descends down at a steady pace and slows as it comes closer to 6.5 jumps up a little to 7 then back down to 6.5 and sometimes a little lower to 6.3 and kind of settles in that are around 6.5. Does urs do that? Lol
 
@Dingdong4eva :welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome:Think about what you have going on here. This is brand new living soil with everything your young plant could possibly need? So why would you think deficiency? Don't worry new growers do this all of the time. Too much of something mimics too little.

View attachment 1292199

By adding the GW and Molasses you revved up the soil too hot for the seedling. The symptoms you see in the leaves happened days ago and may not be over yet.

The good news is most of the time the soil will buffer and balance out the nutrients as long as you give it a healthy dose of LITFA.

PH 6.5 is good but what do you mean by filtered jumpy?
Btw thanks for the chart I’m saving that ! Replied my response in a tag, just realized I could have just hit reply
 
It is not the elements directly in the molasses. It is the ramping up of the activity of the soil microbes that actually feeds the plants. The end result is the same. Yeah LITFA is the hardest thing for new growers. They kill their babies with too much...................... :kiss:

Yes, PH meters need time to settle on the reading. Just be sure to maintain it regularly and calibrate it monthly. If it seems to take too long it may need new batteries?
 
Back
Top