thanks Vapo, that helps!
... it is irritating as hell to have one same strain plant do fine, the other not so much,... two things right off the bat there to consider: pheno' differences, inherent in all seeds, and each pot becomes it's own little ecosystem/"world"....
... Missing info Vapo: with coco, always we will need the base water pH and ppm; then what the ppm is after adding the Ca-Mg (always that goes first, before other nutes)... then the final ppm/EC and pH before going in... And just as important, how much run-off are you putting through, and it's ppm and pH...
Not all toxicities or nute ion overloads can be readily apparent, especially if borderline... but too much of something like, say, Mg, can mess with the uptake of other cations, notably Ca... it's a competitive sort of thing sometimes; with Ca and Mg, toxicity symptoms and levels are harder to define and notice vs. something like K, or N, which show glaring symptoms.... So this is why I need the data that matta' on your inputs and outputs!
Your water, if hard, is a mitigating factor on many things... coco pH needs to be lower than true soils, about 6.0; hard water is full of CaCO3, which has a pH buffering affect, plus it loads up the coco with CaCO3 that may not be dissolved into the Ca++ (plants wants this) and the CO3--/HCO3- which is what's involved with buffering pH... Then you add in the fully available Ca-Mg, and shit gets tangled real fast as you see-
.... to eliminate this set of variables, many chose to run RO/Di/very low ppm water....
>> all this is angling to finding out why this one plant is showing Ca defc.,... One things that's a real bitch, is there's no pH nute availability chart for coco! I can only assume it's something in between the two charts for true soil and hydro... Look in the
Defc. Pic Depot, page 2....
Ca is pretty pH stable in soil, but it's rather borderline in hydro, at a very touchy "saddle point".... with coco and the wonky CEC it has, it's more complicated yet!
Pending this other info, one thing to try that takes all the roots/coco out of the equation is foliar sprays with the Ca-Mg... I'd be happier if that Shogun wasn't a 3 in the N content, but likely not an issue... You will need a wetting agent (castile soap will do in a pinch), just enough to stop the solution from beading up,... this allows it to coat and stick better... Spray underside of leaves especially, more stomata there vs topside....