Fisrt time grower: auto white berry grow problems

[Mr four20]

Hi everybody, I made some research before posting this but could'nt find the answers I want to my problem. I am a frist time grower and new to this forum. I have read a lot about growing before starting my own but never saw another plant in real life... I am currently growing 2 autoflowering white berry's that I am having problems with.

I also have 3 other auto white berry's seeds, one auto big devil seed and one auto blue mystic seed waiting in the fridge for the next grow I was looking at a grow journal whith the same plant on this forum but the guy had better luck and equipment than me and didn't turn into too many problems so I can't compare my grow to him.

They were planted on September 23 and are now at day 42.
The biggest one is 20" high and the other one is 12" high.

- I am growing those in a 2' X 1.75' X 4' box I made with mylar on the inside.
- They are grown inside a closet.
- I have 7 23w cfl bulbs(2X 6500K, 1X 5000K and 4X 2700K) which are always at 2" - 4" from the top of the plants.
- I have an intake and exhaust fan and on fan to put fresh air on the plants.
- I use ONA for the smell.
- Temperature is always between 72F and 82F.
- Humidy is always between 20 and 50.
- Light cycle was 24/0 for the first week then 20/4 until the end of the 4th week and now they are at 18/6 since the first pistills appeared.

- I use a mix of organic soil and regular plant soil but I don't now their properties. I added perlite to the mix.
- The biggest one is in a 1.75 gal pot and the other one in a 1.5 gal pot.(For the first week and a half, they were in party cups.)
-I check ph with a cheap reader and it always tell between 6 - 6.5 and I try to adjust the water to have it stay in that range.
- I add fertilizer one a week. I started using some 20-20-20 fertilizer at week 3 at 1/8th of strength and now I am at 1/2 strength since day 39 which was the last time I added fertilizer.
- I don't use nutes.


This picture was at day 18View attachment 143740View attachment 143751View attachment 143750View attachment 143749View attachment 143746View attachment 143745View attachment 143744View attachment 143743View attachment 143742View attachment 143741View attachment 143747View attachment 143748View attachment 143738This picture was at day 3View attachment 143739View attachment 143753


They started showing pistils at day 30 and to help them a lil bit cause I was feeling that it took longer to start flowering than it is supposed, I changed the light cycle to 18/6 at day 34. The problem is that they still don't show pistils in the bud sites and only on the stems. The smaller one only have a small amount of pistils compared to the other one.

There are no signs of buds forming anywhere and I invested too much to have them not flowering soon and dying.

The plants have brown spots on lower leafs, especially the smaller, bushier one. Bottom leafs are dying and and are yellow and green pale. and I have no idea why the other one stays that much smaller than the other one, other than the fact that it's really bushy around the main stem compared to the other one.

Do you think 12/12 could help? When should I start using my 15-30-15 flowering fertilizer?
I am pretty sure that someone with good knowledge can help me whith my problems.

Waiting for a reply from you guys.

Thanks!

 

[GoidianGanja]

1) I am also newbie and thought I saw pistols but they were other little things that pop out
2) Your plants are looking superb and u must be patient , remember there is alot of exaggeration so for 42 days u really have stunning results - patience
3) Surely fertilizer is Nute???????

 

[namvet25]

You might have a nitrigen deficience causing the bottom leaves to yellow.Give them a light dose of nutes with nitrogen and see if that helps.It's natural to have some yeloow botom leaves . They will not come back so I would remove them.Make sure your adding calcium and magneseium to prevent lockout of nutes. You do have some preflower pistols showing and soon the main flower pistols will start forming.:smokebuds:

 

[psykadelix]

You have various micro-nutrient deficiencies as well as what looks like a major calcium deficiency. I would describe how your plants look as "pale green, slightly drooping, immature, small new leaf growth, and various necrotic spots with yellow lower growth." You said you started 20-20-20 at 18th week 3 right? Were there any micro-nutrients (Zinc, Molybdenum, copper, iron, manganese...)?? Even with soil/organic additives, the food in that will last at most 5-6 weeks in a smaller pot like that. You seem confused also. You said "I don't use nutes." Fertilizer = nutes. Nutes = fertilizer. No different. Your second picture is indicative of a micro nutrient deficiency. Small, thin leaf blades that are twisting and pale. This is CLASSIC zinc and Iron. Now you have to remember your plants are starving. Plants aren't dumb, they know what they need- so your plants have been releasing all kinds of organic acids into the soil solution attempting to find some iron, zinc and other micronutes. They are getting desperate, and probably wasting all their energy on growing roots to try to find the nutrients they need. You are most likely close to being root bound as a result. My suggestion = flush with plain pH adjusted water. 8 hours later or before lights out water them with a light micro solution (about 0.5 EC or 1/4 strength). It must be high in iron, zinc, and all the other shit I mentioned. I would also recommend considering a repot to a larger pot as your plants are most likely bound. Hurry, you have about two weeks before your yield is drastically reduced to make it almost worthless to continue.

 

[psykadelix]

If there were micro nutes in your fertilizer, you have to up it considerably. Most nute manufacturers do not put enough in for "light feedings." Regardless of plant age, they need the same amounts of micronutes available at ALL times. Zinc = .5-1 ppm, Copper = 0.05-.1, Manganese = 0.5-0.9ish, Molybdenum = 0.1 ish You get it. Either way they have to be there in the right amounts even if you are limiting NPK.