First Grow looking to reassurance/advice on seedlings

[aspeedyboi]

Hi everyone, like many this is my first post for my first grow.
Gonna paint the picture of whats gone down so far to provide enough information that people can make suggestions and offer insight.

Running Mephisto Genetics
4x2 Tent
I have a Kingbrite LED 240W light hanging at about 17in above the plants
Using RoyalGold Tupur [Coco/Perlite mix] I didn't add anything to it
Using Cool Mister and Humidifier to control temp and humidity along with small USB fans for air circulation, a basic intake fan, and an Infinity T4 Exhaust fan
I use the probe and meter that came with the fan to monitor the RH and temps and keep them between 78-82F with RH at about 70-80%
Because my grow room isn't insulated the weather can cause spikes in temp and RH (up/down) if I don't make adjustments so the tent has jumped up to about 90F and dropped to 75F. And RH as high as 93% and low as 50%. These events don't happen as often, now that I am aware to pay attention to the weather, but they did happen and for periods no longer than an hour or two.
I transplanted [GG & WC] to 1 gallon fabric pots earlier than I wanted to because I wanted to test if waiting to transplant would make a difference. [Should have used same strain for more control but I like diversity]

I have four seedlings ages are based from their sprout day:
[NoTag] Golden Glue-12 days
[White Tag] White Crack-12 days
[Red Tag] Fugue State-6 Days
[Blue Tag] Galaxy Brain [NightOwl]- 1 days

Germination:
Planted the seed straight into the RapidRooter with a little pH'd water and they popped with no problem

Light Schedule:
Recently changed from 18/6 to 20/4 using the light at 100%

Water/Feeding:
Currently basing feeding/watering information from cocoforcannabis articles.
Already doing watering till run-off once a day when I turn on the lights for the 1 Gal plants and a very light sprinkle to keep the medium moist for the younger seedlings.
Water does have nutrients but at very minimal dosing keeping EC at 145 mS/cm. Using MegaCrop, little Kelp, CalMag, and Orca liquid mycorrhizae pH it after mixing to about 6-6.3. I add CalMag water to dilute the mixture because it is usually too strong.

The older plants look stretched because I forgot to lower the lights after they sprouted.
The younger seedlings don't give me any concerns [yet] but the two older ones do.

GG is looking a little yellow overall [pics might make that hard to see] but the leaves and growth have been promising. There also appear to ber some spots starting and I want to get ahead of the problem before it progresses.

WC I cut off the ends of the two leaves because they were looking like they weren't doing too hot [not sure if that's bad but Ill learn from my mistake I guess] but the overall color is green. Compared to the other plants it doesn't look as sharp looks more... rounded?

My current thoughts are that maybe I shouldn't water as much, but the thought of drying out the coco worries me. I could also believe a CalMag deficiency in the GG because for the first few feedings I didn't dilute my nute mix with Cal/Mag water I just used 0EC RO water. Not sure what to think of the WC shes just kind of ugly.

Apologies for the length but I figure its easier to provide all the info upfront to receive the best advice!

 

[Budgie45]

Hi everyone, like many this is my first post for my first grow.
Gonna paint the picture of whats gone down so far to provide enough information that people can make suggestions and offer insight.

Running Mephisto Genetics
4x2 Tent
I have a Kingbrite LED 240W light hanging at about 17in above the plants
Using RoyalGold Tupur [Coco/Perlite mix] I didn't add anything to it
Using Cool Mister and Humidifier to control temp and humidity along with small USB fans for air circulation, a basic intake fan, and an Infinity T4 Exhaust fan
I use the probe and meter that came with the fan to monitor the RH and temps and keep them between 78-82F with RH at about 70-80%
Because my grow room isn't insulated the weather can cause spikes in temp and RH (up/down) if I don't make adjustments so the tent has jumped up to about 90F and dropped to 75F. And RH as high as 93% and low as 50%. These events don't happen as often, now that I am aware to pay attention to the weather, but they did happen and for periods no longer than an hour or two.
I transplanted [GG & WC] to 1 gallon fabric pots earlier than I wanted to because I wanted to test if waiting to transplant would make a difference. [Should have used same strain for more control but I like diversity]

I have four seedlings ages are based from their sprout day:
[NoTag] Golden Glue-12 days
[White Tag] White Crack-12 days
[Red Tag] Fugue State-6 Days
[Blue Tag] Galaxy Brain [NightOwl]- 1 days

Germination:
Planted the seed straight into the RapidRooter with a little pH'd water and they popped with no problem

Light Schedule:
Recently changed from 18/6 to 20/4 using the light at 100%

Water/Feeding:
Currently basing feeding/watering information from cocoforcannabis articles.
Already doing watering till run-off once a day when I turn on the lights for the 1 Gal plants and a very light sprinkle to keep the medium moist for the younger seedlings.
Water does have nutrients but at very minimal dosing keeping EC at 145 mS/cm. Using MegaCrop, little Kelp, CalMag, and Orca liquid mycorrhizae pH it after mixing to about 6-6.3. I add CalMag water to dilute the mixture because it is usually too strong.

The older plants look stretched because I forgot to lower the lights after they sprouted.
The younger seedlings don't give me any concerns [yet] but the two older ones do.

GG is looking a little yellow overall [pics might make that hard to see] but the leaves and growth have been promising. There also appear to ber some spots starting and I want to get ahead of the problem before it progresses.

WC I cut off the ends of the two leaves because they were looking like they weren't doing too hot [not sure if that's bad but Ill learn from my mistake I guess] but the overall color is green. Compared to the other plants it doesn't look as sharp looks more... rounded?

My current thoughts are that maybe I shouldn't water as much, but the thought of drying out the coco worries me. I could also believe a CalMag deficiency in the GG because for the first few feedings I didn't dilute my nute mix with Cal/Mag water I just used 0EC RO water. Not sure what to think of the WC shes just kind of ugly.

Apologies for the length but I figure its easier to provide all the info upfront to receive the best advice!

Nice setup I use black gold soil to start my plants off then move them into 3 gallon pot with ocean forest soil,I found the ocean forest soil burns young plants

I don’t PH the water I did once and my plant ended up with yellow leafs for some strange reason

I just use tap water let it sit for 24 hours,I won’t ph the water again
I use distilled water to mix the nutes I ph that

There’s plenty of people know more than me,this is just my third grow

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@aspeedyboi Looks like a good start. The Royal Gold Tuper is a soilless medium with no nutrients to speak of. It is designed to be fertigated many times a day or once. 145 EC including your starting water? 725 PPM Hanna is a bit high for seedlings lets make sure we are on the same numbers. Watering/fertigation should begin 2 hours after lights on through 2 hours prior to lights out. During the night roots are producing enzymes and nutrients in the rhizosphere then as they shift gears in the morning to photosynthesis they take those elements in. You want to give the plant time to assimilate them and not wash them away. And then I don't remember the reason for the two hours before lights out. All I can ever remember is an old farmer telling me plants don't like to go to bed with wet feet

 

[Tmonney]

I don't use any nutes on seedlings. I use dr Earth rootzone starter mix. If I'm running autos I don't transplant to avoid stress. I just fill a 3-5 gal pot with my normal medium and put a cell pot sized patch of rootzone in the middle. But I also prefer dry amendments over bottle nutes. Over all a more simple process for small grows.

 

[aspeedyboi]

@aspeedyboi Looks like a good start. The Royal Gold Tuper is a soilless medium with no nutrients to speak of. It is designed to be fertigated many times a day or once. 145 EC including your starting water? 725 PPM Hanna is a bit high for seedlings lets make sure we are on the same numbers. Watering/fertigation should begin 2 hours after lights on through 2 hours prior to lights out. During the night roots are producing enzymes and nutrients in the rhizosphere then as they shift gears in the morning to photosynthesis they take those elements in. You want to give the plant time to assimilate them and not wash them away. And then I don't remember the reason for the two hours before lights out. All I can ever remember is an old farmer telling me plants don't like to go to bed with wet feet

145EC is my water after adding small amounts of nutrients. I use a reverse osmosis filter to get 0EC water as a base. You think I should start watering twice a day? From my research Iv'e heard that I couldn't overwater based on my medium so I'm open to the idea.

 

[aspeedyboi]

I don't use any nutes on seedlings. I use dr Earth rootzone starter mix. If I'm running autos I don't transplant to avoid stress. I just fill a 3-5 gal pot with my normal medium and put a cell pot sized patch of rootzone in the middle. But I also prefer dry amendments over bottle nutes. Over all a more simple process for small grows.

I read mixed things on transplanting autos. The potential benefits allured me to the idea of doing it so I figured I'd give it a try. But yea I agree that dry nutrients might have made it things more simple. I will consider this approach for my next grow to experiment and find what works best for me. Thanks for the insight tho!

 

[aspeedyboi]

Also want to add that I have a another light hanging in the tent that is currently off. I was wondering if turning it on now would provide any benefits or just wait for the seedlings to mature a bit. Its a MaxiSun2020 PB 1500 from amazon claims to pull 150W from the wall.

I also have a BestVa 2000w LED [Blurple] that claims to pull 380W from the wall. I got it from a friend he didn't need it anymore and it only kind of works. It has two switches one for Veg and one for flower. The switches will light up different LED chips. The Veg switch lights up all the VEG LEDs but the flower switch only lights up 3/4 of the flower LEDs. I don't think it will be that much of an issue just curious if I should consider using it and when.


I've read that I should consider adding some additional CO2 if I plan on using more lights.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

145 EC is not a small amount do you mean 0.145 or 1.45 or 14.5? Take a picture of the meter with the reading.

 

[Tmonney]

145EC is my water after adding small amounts of nutrients. I use a reverse osmosis filter to get 0EC water as a base. You think I should start watering twice a day? From my research Iv'e heard that I couldn't overwater based on my medium so I'm open to the idea.

Does the RO filter remove iron from the water? If so this could be your problem. People who use tap water rarely ever encounter an iron deficiency because the trace amounts in the water are usually enough. But if your filter is removing the iron it could be the cause of the yellowing, which could be mistaken for nute burn.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

145EC is my water after adding small amounts of nutrients. I use a reverse osmosis filter to get 0EC water as a base. You think I should start watering twice a day? From my research Iv'e heard that I couldn't overwater based on my medium so I'm open to the idea.

That is a personal decission (You are the Farmer in Charge). The media is designed to be watered/fertigated up to six times a day. If you are running 18/6 you have a 14 hour window in which to fertigate.

I use a precision drip to waste system. In my Photos 12/12 I fertigate 8 times in 8 hours in flower.