Deficiency or imbalance? Detailed info inside...

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I am struggling with the plant in the top image. I suspect it is a magnesium deficiency that has been showing signs since her first week.

Details:
Day 22 from sprout.
5 gallon fabric pots, Coast of Maine Stonington blend, with CoM seed starter in the center.
Temp range 74-78°
RH range 65-75
Watered with spring water (pH typical ~7). Now averaging ~ 1L every 3-4 days
Recharge added to water 1x per week.
Soil slurry tested between 6.4 - 6.8. Runoff tested today at 6.6.

Fungus gnats we're present early on, and treated with BTI and Dr. Zymes (soil drench) 1 week apart. I've added cal/mag to 1 watering (3ml/gal) first week, and 2 foiliar epsom sprays (3 days apart) this week, and the plant has not improved and seems to be maintaining with the lowers getting worse.

For reference, the plant in the second pot was planted same day, in same medium and is thriving.

Not sure what if anything can be done for her. Any ideas are appreciated.

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I am doing my present grow with Stoningtonblend, I am in week 5. I have two plants, one is very dark green like your one plant, almost a touch of too much nitrogen is what I suspect. The other has odd colored leaves, which is in my pic. I think its just very nutrient rich amended soil and is a little hard on them in the first couple weeks, but they are growing like a wild fire in the stuff. I dont do anything but water, cause they dont need anything when using this soil for atleast a month. I think your plants will be fine, they still look really healthy, and I expect both our plants will out grow the weird leaf coloring.
How's the Dr Zymes? Seem's every bag of Stonington comes with gnats. Also may be time to get the RH down.

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I am doing my present grow with Stoningtonblend, I am in week 5. I have two plants, one is very dark green like your one plant, almost a touch of too much nitrogen is what I suspect. The other has odd colored leaves, which is in my pic. I think its just very nutrient rich amended soil and is a little hard on them in the first couple weeks, but they are growing like a wild fire in the stuff. I dont do anything but water, cause they dont need anything when using this soil for atleast a month. I think your plants will be fine, they still look really healthy, and I expect both our plants will out grow the weird leaf coloring.
How's the Dr Zymes? Seem's every bag of Stonington comes with gnats. Also may be time to get the RH down.

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Thanks. Odd colors is a good way to describe it. Almost looks like lime green zebra striping on the leaves which are slowing turning to yellow, and a few pink/purple stems. The lowers on that one also have some spotting indicative of a calcium issue, but yes, the plant is still growing. I'm hesitant to do any training on this one.

The Zymes was noticably effective almost immediately (next day) with a major reduction in the gnat population, but I still find the occasional one in the tent. I think that several repeated applications would work well, but I'm also trying to balance my waterings to include beneficial microbes. Not sure if zymes can be combined with other stuff.

Haven't fed them yet, but I'm planning on introducing dry amendments (either CoM veg/bloom or the Gaia green equivalents) with EWC in about a week.

After browsing through multiple threads I've seen a few others with a similar challenge with this soil. Everything is pretty much dialed, so I am perplexed at what might be causing the strange coloring.

VPD seems about right for veg/early flower. What do you suggest for RH?
 
I'm at 50%, RH right now but seems like 60 is the norm with most people in veg.
FYI, my new growth up top doesn't have the weird coloring, whatever caused it must be getting depleted.
Your yellowing may be more extreme then mine due to using other add-in's when the soil was already nute rich.
 
Problem: lower leaves yellowing/dying

Medium/grow method:
5 gallon fabric pots, Coast of Maine Stonington blend, with CoM seed starter in the center.

Feed: and supplements used:
cal/mag to 1 watering (3ml/gal) first week, and 2 foiliar epsom sprays (3 days apart) this week

water source:
spring water (pH typical ~7). Now averaging ~ 1L every 3-4 days Recharge added to water 1x per week.

Strain/age:
Day 22 from sprout.

light used:
n/a

Climate:
Temp range 74-78° RH range 65-75

Additional info:
another plant in same soil doing well. Fungus gnats we're present early on, and treated with BTI and Dr. Zymes (soil drench) 1 week apart.

ph of medium and e.c of medium via any method you have/can use
: organic (?) soil,
Soil slurry tested between 6.4 - 6.8. Runoff tested today at 6.6.
 
From website -

"Stonington Blend™ Organic Growers Mix

Stonington Blend™ Organic Growers Mix is an OMRI listed, complex Super Soil designed for high performance growing in containers and large pots. It is for all growers who want a rich, seedling-to-harvest mix. Packed with nutrients from ocean based bi-products, and formulated with amendments known to boost budding, blooming, and root development, this perfectly balanced mix can sustain a cannabis plant for a full growing season and give you tremendous results without any additional nutrients added!

Made with: mycorrhizal fungi, lobster compost, worm castings, perlite, dehydrated hen manure, coco fiber (coir), lime, and a mixture of meals (kelp, alfalfa and fish bone.)

Just add water This soil has everything already in it!"


It says you can add nothing but in first several weeks you have - BTI and Dr. Zymes (soil drench) 1 week apart. I've added cal/mag to 1 watering (3ml/gal) first week, and 2 foiliar epsom sprays (3 days apart) this week,

That would be my first guess. If not that, Ph ~could be a little lower, but seems ~okay, I can't tell very accurately from just run off or slury test.

If you add only cal/mag, you have now thrown of balance which can lock out other nutes as well as o.d. cal and/or mag. If the plants show signs of needing nutes, I would only add a balance nute, with all macros and micros.
 
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Thanks @Peacefulgarden. Really not sure that the single application of cal/mag and the subsequent foliar sprays are the problem. These were added in response to symptoms that the plant was already showing during the first week from sprout. I suppose it could have made things worse though.

Do you think that adding the beneficial microbes or the BTI/Zymes contributed? Another thought I had was that insects/larvae in the root zone could have been robbing the plant of calcium and/or magnesium causing the appearance of deficiencies.
 
Right off the bat, doesn’t look like it’s getting enough nitrogen with that yellow fading.

I’ve had charged coco with “recharge” and you have to be careful with it.

It’s a nice product, but don’t apply that weekly.

You shouldn’t need to add charge if your soil is super soil. Water only, ph 6. I believe your problem is the fact you’re adding recharge to an already organic/fertilised soil. Just feed water only all the way through the grow
 
Thanks @Peacefulgarden. Really not sure that the single application of cal/mag and the subsequent foliar sprays are the problem. These were added in response to symptoms that the plant was already showing during the first week from sprout. I suppose it could have made things worse though.

Do you think that adding the beneficial microbes or the BTI/Zymes contributed? Another thought I had was that insects/larvae in the root zone could have been robbing the plant of calcium and/or magnesium causing the appearance of deficiencies.

If the problems started in the first week, maybe it was the seed starter. Have you tested the ph of the seed started and the main soil on their own, (they don’t state a ph for it like they do their soil/s)? I personally have never had success starting in a small amount of a seed starter, then moving into a main soil. One thing for me was the seed starter stayed really wet, while the outer soil dried faster. From my experience, 2 different mediums don’t even out the moisture between one another very well, though it looks like it works well for some people.

Since I have been starting all my plants in solo cup sized containers for the first week I have been nearly 100% good starts. I know, it seems like that is frowned upon for autos, but it seems fine to me.

I don’t know what bti or that soil drench is, but if used before any problems, maybe the cause.

ive had nats in the past, and some recently, even on some very tiny seedlings of different plant varieties. From what I can tell, they bother me much more than the plants. I cover all access points to the soil now with plastic I would otherwise put in the recycling and it seems to be working great.
 
I'd be willing to bet you've got a calcium excess that is causing a lockout. @Mañ'O'Green has a great write up about this!

 
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