Autopot / biotabs / glueberry og / coco / overwater? overfeed?

[joe byrd]

Hi guys,

I have always found many interesting things amond this forum and I was about to follow Mr Ryker with his beauty glueberry og you probably all know.

I have some experience (once I grew auto ultimate with a spectacular results of 850g dry buds! I hope I will find some pics to share with you guys!) but everytime I try different method.

Now I went for 15l autopots and biotabs. There is about 60/30 coco and perlite with some (probably less than 10%) worms castings from plagron and a store bough hummus. Also guanokalongs bat guano - dosed as they recommended (about 75g per pot if I good remember) and silicium flash form biotabs. I tried to follow mr Ryker instructions.

Strains were mostly from Dutch Passion - Glueberry OG, Auto Ultimate, Daiquiri Lime and RQS Northern light.

First month they grew under MH 600w 24/0 as the place I grow was cold. After I switch for 20/4 and added another tent but the night were moved to produce heat by one lamp at night.

Temperature were aboput 18-20'C. After 6 weeks another tent arrived, so there was another lamp and temperature outside tents is about 18-20'C inside tent about 26'C

There is no inline fans. Outline fans works only during the daytime. Its basement room, there is a chimney so there is a little air movement but not proper.

Humidity is between 60-75%

All the plants grew quite nice but I feel like they could be overwatered as I dont have easy access to this place. From the begining they grew in quite heave pots but I've heard there is no chance to overwater coco specially with that ratio of perlite. Now I am not sure about that.

In one tent there is not much problems. I think its mostly cal-mag and pk deficiency. Plants are a bit pale but maybe its because they have nice size and the ate all the nitrogen.

The question is about dropy and small leaves. Stalks are stiff and the pots are heavy. There is 4 pots in 1.2x1.2 tent. 2 of them has heavy pot even after 2 totaly dry days.

I left them for another dry day. I hope they will look better. They are still growing but doesnt look healthy. Sooooo guyyys I have some ideas:


Overfeed as they had good mix and I was adding canna cal mag agent 1ml/1l every watering. Also canna pk 13/14 1.5ml/1l (doses were smaller at the begining of the flowering) but to me it was more like deficiences as they grew quite big and its coco.... buuuuut i suppose its

Overwater, as the pots are heavy but i dont know. There is air domes, coco, lots of perlite so how could it? I was top watering with biotabs flowering boosteres. Maybe the layer of clay bubbles was to high? They almost cover the air dome. I though its ok but then I red some opinions that the layer should be smaller. Should I do more dry periods?

Maybe its some root rot? There was a bit cold a the beginning but autopots were nicely isolated from concrete floor. Heat comes from the light so maybe down there was a little bit too cold? Not all the clay bubbles were ph balanced. I just cleaned them but forgot to stabilize ph.

pH level is bad? I always set ph for about 6 even tho biotabs claims there is no need to measure ph or ec. If there is the same dosage for soil and for coco I decide to feed my coco with cal mag at least. Sometimes I give a small dosage of advanced bloom AB to cover deficiencies.

Or was it a light stress? in 1.2 tent there is 600w HPS with parabolic reflector and it was about 20-30cm above the plants. But lower leaves are also droppy and the other plant looks more healthy even with the same lamp distance. Anyway I rise the lamp a bit to see if that was an issue.

In the tent with issues there was no ventilator to mix the air. Now I added it but I dont think its my problem solver

Also, I always let the water chill for at least 24h before I put it to the reservoir. I want to keep all the fungis and bacterias alive.


Guys sorry for messy post but I am a bit tired and confused. I have no one to talk about it.

This is 1 of those 2. The One why I am here. The other looks similar. Both with heavy pots. Both needs your love and knowledge. Its Glueberry OG almost 2months old. Please help!

1 weak in the tent.

This is leave from 2 weak plant. Maybe I am worried too much but leaves are small, yellowing quite fast but not super fast. And that dark spots. I have no clue if its just deficiency, overwater or maybe some funghi or rot?

This one is from other tent. Everything goes well beside some deficiencies but I guess girls are just hungry. Its not too hot there but maybe lights are too close? Why the tips are curled up?

I will make a grow journal soon but now I need to deal with that situation. I hope I will provide you some nasty bud porn

Love you guys and thanks for help.

Peace

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@joe byrdWelcome to AFNYou probably have too much P-K The Canna product is meant for single application in soil or a week in a hydro tank.

 

[joe byrd]

@joe byrdWelcome to AFNYou probably have too much P-K The Canna product is meant for single application in soil or a week in a hydro tank.

View attachment 1292200

Thanks. I feel like a noob.

On the other plants I have some sympthoms of cal mag deficiency. Could it be coused with excess of potassium? I've just filled the tanks with fresh nutrient solution. I am going to change it for clear water and maybe you recommended to make a flush? Should I give some small dose of cal cag to the new water solution?

...or is there too much calcium that couses lack of potassium and magnes?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thanks. I feel like a noob.

On the other plants I have some sympthoms of cal mag deficiency. Could it be coused with excess of potassium? I've just filled the tanks with fresh nutrient solution. I am going to change it for clear water and maybe you recommended to make a flush? Should I give some small dose of cal cag to the new water solution?

...or is there too much calcium that couses lack of potassium and magnes?

No never add single elements to the pot.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[joe byrd]

No never add single elements to the pot.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Nice, thanks but if I good understand in case of some defieciency I should use base and balanced nutrient? I feel like biotabs line wasn't really created for fast growing autos. You know, there is the same dosage for coco and soil which are different from the beging so possibilities to get defieciencies are quite high. So should I just treat it with orgatrex and their PK? Many growers uses cal mag in flowering but article said its wrong. In other tent I have 3 glueberries in coco and 1 in biobizz light mix. I feed them with Tangs schedule but one has first signs of calcium deficiency. So I should increase base nutrient dose instead of some cal mag to keep the balance? What if I overfeed instead of cover one defieciency?

Anyway I just feel that I messed up my balance in pot. But it could be done also with adding bat guano and hummus to the mix which was designed by biotabs. Buuuut Ryker had great results with that.

I am confused a little bit. Should I change reservoirs, flush the pots a little bit and feed again with only a biotabs fertilizers like orgatrex, PK, compost tea, bactrex and mycothrex? And then just use clean water? My tap water has around 300ppm so its heavy itself but biotabs line should handle it?

Again, thanks for your help

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Nice, thanks but if I good understand in case of some defieciency I should use base and balanced nutrient? I feel like biotabs line wasn't really created for fast growing autos. You know, there is the same dosage for coco and soil which are different from the beging so possibilities to get defieciencies are quite high. So should I just treat it with orgatrex and their PK? Many growers uses cal mag in flowering but article said its wrong. In other tent I have 3 glueberries in coco and 1 in biobizz light mix. I feed them with Tangs schedule but one has first signs of calcium deficiency. So I should increase base nutrient dose instead of some cal mag to keep the balance? What if I overfeed instead of cover one defieciency?

Anyway I just feel that I messed up my balance in pot. But it could be done also with adding bat guano and hummus to the mix which was designed by biotabs. Buuuut Ryker had great results with that.

I am confused a little bit. Should I change reservoirs, flush the pots a little bit and feed again with only a biotabs fertilizers like orgatrex, PK, compost tea, bactrex and mycothrex? And then just use clean water? My tap water has around 300ppm so its heavy itself but biotabs line should handle it?

Again, thanks for your help

This is the kind of dilemma you end up with when you mix Nutrient Vendor products on your own. You need to do all of the math to figure out what to use. Coco has a need for extra Calcium and Magnesium that you need to provide if you are not using nutrients designed for coco. 50 - 75 PPMs should be plenty. Coco also likes extra iron. You can get this by placing a rusty steel nail in your aerating bucket for an hour or so. Make sure it is not galvinized or coated. Mix the Cal-mag it in to your base nutrients following the vendor mixing instructions.

 

[joe byrd]

This is the kind of dilemma you end up with when you mix Nutrient Vendor products on your own. You need to do all of the math to figure out what to use. Coco has a need for extra Calcium and Magnesium that you need to provide if you are not using nutrients designed for coco. 50 - 75 PPMs should be plenty. Coco also likes extra iron. You can get this by placing a rusty steel nail in your aerating bucket for an hour or so. Make sure it is not galvinized or coated. Mix the Cal-mag it in to your base nutrients following the vendor mixing instructions.

Well, I decide to make a little flush. I used 5l of pure phed water each pot and then I've added 1l of orgatrex, biotabs PK 5-8 and bactrex, also phed each pot. Also I added a recommended (in case of deficiencies) 50g od silicium flash. I removed "my solution" from the both tanks and replaced it with fresh, phed water. Now i wait untill chlorine will evaporate from the reservoir and I will turn them on.

I guess it should do the job. I hope it was not too late. I missed one biotabs step - strong solution of orgatrex with bactrex in 5th week. Probably that couses the deficiencies and my solution just messed it up even more. Now we are on good track so I keep my fingers crossed to see some nice results. Some plants will need like 2-3 weeks, other 4-5 weeks.

Thank you for your help. I apreciate it!

I will post some pics soon