1 unsuccessful grow under my belt...help me Obi Wan.

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Hey Guys,
New grower and am on my 2nd grow and its heading the same way as the first.Not sure what im doing wrong.My set up is a 4x2x5 tent,4 inch extractor and carbon filter.240w Kingbrite LED,2 clip on fans,2 gal fabric pots,Mephisto seeds and Bio Bizz light mix,i use Bio Bizz bloom and grow at quarter strength.
I got about 60 gms from 3 plants and i thought it was CBD! i had 2x 4assed monkey and they were about 8 inches high,i did LST on all 3.Could it be light distance,the hygrometer says tent is ok and my water from the tap is 6.6ph.
Growing 4 assed monkey and chmdogging at the minute and they are all very small again,genuinely thinking of packing up and throwing it up in the attic.
 
Hi @arthurthedog :welcome:Welcome to AFN :welcome:. Farming is not easy and there is much to learn. First is the environment and you have a good start there. You need a few tools. I bought cheap ones when I first started and it cost me a crop of 6 nice plants (street value 3K) just 3 weeks from finishing. The PH pen went wonky and I killed them trusting that pen. So buy the best tools you can afford. You neen a PH pen, a PH soil probe, an EC meter and a temperature/RH meter for inside the tent at a minimum.

Bio-bizz light mix is a bit fussy if you do not add the needed nutrients at the correct time. It is supposed to have enough nutrients for the first 10 days? Lets talk about nutrient systems. Yes, they are SYSTEMS. Plants need 14 macro and micro nutrients to grow. Not all nutrient components can be mixed into the same bottle in concentrate as chemical reactions cause them to bind to each other in a way that prevents the plant from using them (lock-out). Dry nutrients can mix them but not wet ones. The nutrients you feed your plant need to be in balance every time you feed. Watering with nutrients mixed in is called fertigation. What that means is if their recipe calls for two grams of Part A and 2 grams of Part B and 2 grams of XXX and you want to make 50% strength feed you need 1 gram of Part A and 1 gram of Part B and 1 gram of XXX to keep it in balance.

Lets look at the bio-bizz chart week 3 for bio-bizz light mix. everything in the red circle plus the stuff below is needed. If you leave something out the plant will not be getting all of the needed nutrients. Notice it is fish-mix or Bio-Grow not both.

Bio Bizz.jpg


Now once you are feeding in balance you need to dial-in the strength. Start at 50% of the chart and add 10% more each week until you see a little bit of tip burn. Then back-off 10%. You are now feeding that plant at the strength it likes. PH is critical in nutrient uptake. I would run 6.2 going in. When you get your PH soil probe you can make adjustments based on the PH in the root zone where it really counts. You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab Leap soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work.

There are other considerations but lets just start with this.

Just a reminder run lights 18/6 with day temps at 78°F RH 40% - 60% night 68°F RH 40% - 60%

Post some pictures taken in day light (5000K color) or flash with the grow lights turned off.

:vibe:
 
Hi @arthurthedog :welcome:Welcome to AFN :welcome:. Farming is not easy and there is much to learn. First is the environment and you have a good start there. You need a few tools. I bought cheap ones when I first started and it cost me a crop of 6 nice plants (street value 3K) just 3 weeks from finishing. The PH pen went wonky and I killed them trusting that pen. So buy the best tools you can afford. You neen a PH pen, a PH soil probe, an EC meter and a temperature/RH meter for inside the tent at a minimum.

Bio-bizz light mix is a bit fussy if you do not add the needed nutrients at the correct time. It is supposed to have enough nutrients for the first 10 days? Lets talk about nutrient systems. Yes, they are SYSTEMS. Plants need 14 macro and micro nutrients to grow. Not all nutrient components can be mixed into the same bottle in concentrate as chemical reactions cause them to bind to each other in a way that prevents the plant from using them (lock-out). Dry nutrients can mix them but not wet ones. The nutrients you feed your plant need to be in balance every time you feed. Watering with nutrients mixed in is called fertigation. What that means is if their recipe calls for two grams of Part A and 2 grams of Part B and 2 grams of XXX and you want to make 50% strength feed you need 1 gram of Part A and 1 gram of Part B and 1 gram of XXX to keep it in balance.

Lets look at the bio-bizz chart week 3 for bio-bizz light mix. everything in the red circle plus the stuff below is needed. If you leave something out the plant will not be getting all of the needed nutrients. Notice it is fish-mix or Bio-Grow not both.

View attachment 1220895

Now once you are feeding in balance you need to dial-in the strength. Start at 50% of the chart and add 10% more each week until you see a little bit of tip burn. Then back-off 10%. You are now feeding that plant at the strength it likes. PH is critical in nutrient uptake. I would run 6.2 going in. When you get your PH soil probe you can make adjustments based on the PH in the root zone where it really counts. You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab Leap soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work.

There are other considerations but lets just start with this.

Just a reminder run lights 18/6 with day temps at 78°F RH 40% - 60% night 68°F RH 40% - 60%

Post some pictures taken in day light (5000K color) or flash with the grow lights turned off.

:vibe:
thanks,i run my lights 24hrs and i got a loan of my mates blue lab p.h,did have a Mars TS 1000 in the tent too but took it out 2 days ago to see if that was part of the problem.
 
thanks,i run my lights 24hrs and i got a loan of my mates blue lab p.h,did have a Mars TS 1000 in the tent too but took it out 2 days ago to see if that was part of the problem.
I have done tests with autoflowers running 24/0, 20/4, and 18/6. The 24/0 had the largest yield by about 7% to 10% but the quality was poor. The 20/4 was just a little less and not significant and the quality was a little better. the 18/6 was hands down the best quality and about 10% less yield. If you factor in the energy used to produce the crops the 24/0 finished about 7 days sooner than the others but the overall hours energy ran was still the largest. The other two ripened at the same length of time so the 18/6 was a clear winner for energy used. I am a much better grower now then when I ran those tests and I have much better lights now as well. I am not willing to grow 24/0 because I do not need the yield, I want the quality.

:vibe:
 
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