Paul Allen
Trail Magic
For the last year or so I have been experimenting with crossing some of the many different strains that I enjoy. This is simply one of those attempts. I started this experiment with White Widow XXL auto and a Critical + 2.0 photo clone from a Critical + 2.0 mother I maintain. I used the White Widow XXL auto as my pollen donor. I used my own home-made colloidal silver @ 25 ppm(s) to sack-up my White Widow XXL auto. I pollinated my Critical + 2.0 photo clone with the pollen from my White Widow XXL auto. After, I grew many seeds from that cross only focusing on getting at least (2) auto(s) from those seeds. Out of the (71) viable seeds that sprouted I got (24) auto(s). The first auto I got from those (24) auto(s) was then used to create pollen that I used to pollinate the second auto from the remaining (23) auto(s) derived from my first cross. This experimental grow is based on those resulting seeds. This experiment is to see if all the seeds are now of the auto type. I am going to grow (8) seeds from my second cross. I am doing that really just to see if they are now all auto(s). If they are I will continue to grow a few of them along side a few White Widow XXL(s) so you and I can see their differences.
My crosses....
1. White Widow XXL auto (pollen donor) > Critical + 2.0 photo (seed producer)
2. White Widow XXL auto x Critical + 2.0 photo (first auto = pollen donor) > White Widow XXL auto x Critical + 2.0 photo (second auto = seed producer)
Here is a picture of a bud from the other (22) auto(s) from my first cross, my F1, she is very yummy!
The seeds...
The seeds are kind of small, they seem to contain more darker shades than lighter shades of brown.
Germination...
I am very lazy, so I use a (1) cup measuring cup filled (1/2) way with (0) ppm distilled water and simply toss my seeds in there. The cup of water holding the seed(s) is kept on a heat controled pad. The water surface temperature is kept at a constant (74F). Then every (24) hours I push each seed under that water and if she sinks she is ready to be dropped into a solo cup that contains the same grow medium that I will use in the bigger (3) gallon cloth pots that they will spend the rest of their growing life in. as a side note... if after a certain amount time / days they don't sink, they get tossed out into the trash...
Germinating These Seeds...
Okay, the first thing I have noticed with these seeds is that they seem to take forever to pass my sink test. I setup (4) cups, placing (2) seeds in each cup (4) days in a row. My results are below... but the average seems to be (10) days for these seeds to show that they are truly viable! I am still running this test, I will be doing (30) straight days of this, and then also record how many of those seeds actually spring to life. And NO, I will not be fully growing all these seeds, only the first (8) below will be grown to maturity, the other (52) are only being used to test the AVERAGE germination period for these seeds. Now when I say "average germination period", I mean from the time they are placed into the water and then placed into their growing medium, and they finally shed their "shell".
08/01/17 = cup 1, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (8), seed (2) sank on day (10)
08/02/17 = cup 2, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (9), seed (2) sank on day (10)
08/03/17 = cup 3, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (11), seed (2) sank on day (12)
08/04/17 = cup 4, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (8), seed (2) sank on day (11)
All the (8) seeds above passed my sink test and are now in individual solo cups. The (2) seeds from cup one have already shed their shell. In few days I will update the progress of all the above (8) seeds, with pictures...
My Germinating Solo Cups...
My germinating cups contain the same medium that my final grow bag have, the only difference is that the germinating cup contain 100% air-dried medium. I do that because I want to completely control how much water each of my seedlings gets. That assure me that all my seedling won't ever get over-watered thus keeping my young seedlings from ever growing stringy stems at the start of their development. I like that all my plants have at least 6-7 tight nodes before they are even (2) inches tall. I have found you can easily do that with every seedling if you re-frame from over-watering them, (ie; just give them what they need. I also have found that young plants less than (3) weeks old and after their first node develop's love the heat. My germinating box stays at between 80F-85F and my seedling thrive in that environment. My seedling for the first (2) weeks only get 1/2 teaspoon of water every third day. Other than that, my germination box has an auto misting machine, that mists the entire germinating box for (10) seconds every (4) hours. My germinating box is 2' x 2' x 3', it is lit up by (8) 6500K 23w compact cfl(s).
Here is an example of a 10 day old Humboldt County Special [HASHTAG]#8[/HASHTAG] Auto. She is just a little over (2) inches tall and is working on developing her (6) node. She will stay in the germination box for another week before she gets transplanted and moved to one of my auto grow tents. Like I said you can really build up your node structure when your plants are seedlings if you simply don't ever over-water your seedlings!
24 Hours in...
After (24) hours of being placed in solo cups all (8) seeds have broken ground, but I am only showing (4) of them for now, (I just don't have the time to take all those pictures). Anyhow... the center seedling is a DINAFEM White Widow XXL auto that I will be using throughout this entire grow to see the differences between it and my cross of it with DINAFEM Critical + 2.0 photo. I will also be growing a Critical + 2.0 photo from a seed so I can compare the differences between it and my cross of it with a DINAFEM White Widow XXL auto.
Lighting...
I am all about being cheap when it comes to buying bulbs because I use (2) bulbs for each grow then I toss them out. I am also all about statistics. That means I record everything, then I use my recorded statistics to determine which light type mh / hps works best for the type of plant I am growing. No, I don't buy into the theory that the same bulb type mh / hps works best for all plants or even for veg / flowering. The only thing I will say is that I use (2) different bulbs for all my growing. My hps bulb of choice is a SYLVANIA 67307, and for my MH bulb of choice is a SYLVANIA 64468. Why? cause they work great for me and they are also super cheap, I can buy each of them all-day-long for $8.00 a pop from a local large venue lighting contractor. Anyhow for this grow these plants will get 3 weeks of MH light (SYLVANIA 64468) @ 18hrs on / 6hrs off, then 4 weeks of HPS light (SYLVANIA 67307) @ 18hrs on / 6hrs off, then to finish the last (2) weeks these plants will again get MH lighting (SYLVANIA 64468) @ 18hrs on / 6hrs off.
Medium + Nutrients...
Soil: Sunshine Mix 4
Additives... (per 2.2 cu. ft bag sunshine mix 4)
24 quarts perlite, (12 quarts chunky, 12 quarts regular)
3 cups black tea boiled-out and then dried
3 cups dolomite lime
3 cups of coast of maine stonington lobster & kelp plant food, (organic, grounded-up)
1 cup bat guano
1/3 cup cal/mag powder
When watering, I don't add anything but blackstrap molasses, I add 1 tablespoon per 5 gallon bucket of water. I use water from my creek out-back, my water run-off, or water that comes out of the bottom of my pots always reads from 6.4 ph to 6.6 ph which seems to be liked by all the plants that I grow.
Next update in (7) days, have fun!!!
My crosses....
1. White Widow XXL auto (pollen donor) > Critical + 2.0 photo (seed producer)
2. White Widow XXL auto x Critical + 2.0 photo (first auto = pollen donor) > White Widow XXL auto x Critical + 2.0 photo (second auto = seed producer)
Here is a picture of a bud from the other (22) auto(s) from my first cross, my F1, she is very yummy!
The seeds...
The seeds are kind of small, they seem to contain more darker shades than lighter shades of brown.
Germination...
I am very lazy, so I use a (1) cup measuring cup filled (1/2) way with (0) ppm distilled water and simply toss my seeds in there. The cup of water holding the seed(s) is kept on a heat controled pad. The water surface temperature is kept at a constant (74F). Then every (24) hours I push each seed under that water and if she sinks she is ready to be dropped into a solo cup that contains the same grow medium that I will use in the bigger (3) gallon cloth pots that they will spend the rest of their growing life in. as a side note... if after a certain amount time / days they don't sink, they get tossed out into the trash...
Germinating These Seeds...
Okay, the first thing I have noticed with these seeds is that they seem to take forever to pass my sink test. I setup (4) cups, placing (2) seeds in each cup (4) days in a row. My results are below... but the average seems to be (10) days for these seeds to show that they are truly viable! I am still running this test, I will be doing (30) straight days of this, and then also record how many of those seeds actually spring to life. And NO, I will not be fully growing all these seeds, only the first (8) below will be grown to maturity, the other (52) are only being used to test the AVERAGE germination period for these seeds. Now when I say "average germination period", I mean from the time they are placed into the water and then placed into their growing medium, and they finally shed their "shell".
08/01/17 = cup 1, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (8), seed (2) sank on day (10)
08/02/17 = cup 2, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (9), seed (2) sank on day (10)
08/03/17 = cup 3, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (11), seed (2) sank on day (12)
08/04/17 = cup 4, (2) seeds, seed (1) sank on day (8), seed (2) sank on day (11)
All the (8) seeds above passed my sink test and are now in individual solo cups. The (2) seeds from cup one have already shed their shell. In few days I will update the progress of all the above (8) seeds, with pictures...
My Germinating Solo Cups...
My germinating cups contain the same medium that my final grow bag have, the only difference is that the germinating cup contain 100% air-dried medium. I do that because I want to completely control how much water each of my seedlings gets. That assure me that all my seedling won't ever get over-watered thus keeping my young seedlings from ever growing stringy stems at the start of their development. I like that all my plants have at least 6-7 tight nodes before they are even (2) inches tall. I have found you can easily do that with every seedling if you re-frame from over-watering them, (ie; just give them what they need. I also have found that young plants less than (3) weeks old and after their first node develop's love the heat. My germinating box stays at between 80F-85F and my seedling thrive in that environment. My seedling for the first (2) weeks only get 1/2 teaspoon of water every third day. Other than that, my germination box has an auto misting machine, that mists the entire germinating box for (10) seconds every (4) hours. My germinating box is 2' x 2' x 3', it is lit up by (8) 6500K 23w compact cfl(s).
Here is an example of a 10 day old Humboldt County Special [HASHTAG]#8[/HASHTAG] Auto. She is just a little over (2) inches tall and is working on developing her (6) node. She will stay in the germination box for another week before she gets transplanted and moved to one of my auto grow tents. Like I said you can really build up your node structure when your plants are seedlings if you simply don't ever over-water your seedlings!
24 Hours in...
After (24) hours of being placed in solo cups all (8) seeds have broken ground, but I am only showing (4) of them for now, (I just don't have the time to take all those pictures). Anyhow... the center seedling is a DINAFEM White Widow XXL auto that I will be using throughout this entire grow to see the differences between it and my cross of it with DINAFEM Critical + 2.0 photo. I will also be growing a Critical + 2.0 photo from a seed so I can compare the differences between it and my cross of it with a DINAFEM White Widow XXL auto.
Lighting...
I am all about being cheap when it comes to buying bulbs because I use (2) bulbs for each grow then I toss them out. I am also all about statistics. That means I record everything, then I use my recorded statistics to determine which light type mh / hps works best for the type of plant I am growing. No, I don't buy into the theory that the same bulb type mh / hps works best for all plants or even for veg / flowering. The only thing I will say is that I use (2) different bulbs for all my growing. My hps bulb of choice is a SYLVANIA 67307, and for my MH bulb of choice is a SYLVANIA 64468. Why? cause they work great for me and they are also super cheap, I can buy each of them all-day-long for $8.00 a pop from a local large venue lighting contractor. Anyhow for this grow these plants will get 3 weeks of MH light (SYLVANIA 64468) @ 18hrs on / 6hrs off, then 4 weeks of HPS light (SYLVANIA 67307) @ 18hrs on / 6hrs off, then to finish the last (2) weeks these plants will again get MH lighting (SYLVANIA 64468) @ 18hrs on / 6hrs off.
Medium + Nutrients...
Soil: Sunshine Mix 4
Additives... (per 2.2 cu. ft bag sunshine mix 4)
24 quarts perlite, (12 quarts chunky, 12 quarts regular)
3 cups black tea boiled-out and then dried
3 cups dolomite lime
3 cups of coast of maine stonington lobster & kelp plant food, (organic, grounded-up)
1 cup bat guano
1/3 cup cal/mag powder
When watering, I don't add anything but blackstrap molasses, I add 1 tablespoon per 5 gallon bucket of water. I use water from my creek out-back, my water run-off, or water that comes out of the bottom of my pots always reads from 6.4 ph to 6.6 ph which seems to be liked by all the plants that I grow.
Next update in (7) days, have fun!!!
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